/// India 2025
At the end of January I traveled to India again………
A morning on Kovalam Beach has begun. The sun is beginning to rise above the horizon and bathe the beach more and more in light. The first rays of sunlight illuminate the fine sand and hit the early risers who have gathered on the beach, enjoying their classic „morning walks“ with bare feet through the sand, and some are lingering in silent meditation, completely in harmony with nature. The gentle sound of the waves is in the air and makes me, and certainly not the only one, keep closing my eyes.
It is seven thirty and the atmosphere is filled with peaceful serenity. I stroll barefoot along Lighthouse Beach, which stretches for about 500 meters. The promenade is lined with small hotels, accommodations, restaurants and shops waiting to open their doors. The first restaurant owners are starting to set the tables and prepare for the rush of guests. On the beach, staff are already setting up parasols and loungers to offer sun worshippers a comfortable place on the warm sand. Temperatures have already reached 28°C at this early hour – pleasant, as a light breeze from the open sea refreshes the air.
I take my time and enjoy the morning as I stroll through the sand. My eyes wander over the scenery, always looking for interesting subjects to capture with my camera. Last year I watched the fishermen almost every day as they hauled in their nets and presented their catch. But this year the daily routine of the locals seems to have changed. I have been told that many fishermen no longer go out every day because the income from the nets is becoming increasingly sparse. The effort they put in often does not bring enough for their families, let alone larger fish that they could sell to the surrounding restaurants.
Despite the challenges, the people here are business-minded. The high season begins in November and lasts until early April, then the rainy season begins with the monsoon, which sets in in May and covers the region with heavy showers. A woman sits patiently on the beach and waits for the first tourists to take up their loungers. She has brought tropical fruits – bananas, pineapples, mangos, papayas and coconuts – which she offers cut into bite-sized pieces on a tin plate. I have known many of the „fruit ladies“ for years; our exchanges are always warm. When we meet, we ask each other how we are and about our families – a lovely tradition that strengthens the bond.
Although I haven’t yet decided on a „fruit salad“ on this morning walk, she allows me to take her photo with a friendly smile. Her friendliness reflects the way of life and joy of the people here on Kovalam Beach – an ideal start to a new day in India.
Kovalam Beach in southern India, in the state of Kerala, attracts tourists from all over the world with its picturesque ambience.
In addition to relaxation, the beach and its surroundings offer the opportunity to buy all kinds of souvenirs from local vendors. It is not just the „fruit ladies“ who have their hands full during the high season to make a living. In addition to them, there are other talented vendors, such as this gentleman, who offers a variety of scarves, blankets and shawls made of high-quality cotton or sometimes fine silk.
The scarves in particular are very popular because they are so versatile. Men often use them as lungis, a traditional Indian form of wraparound skirt. The lungi consists of a rectangular piece of fabric with overlapping edges and is cleverly held around the waist by simply folding it over. This practical and airy clothing is not only comfortable, but also a part of the cultural identity of many people in India.
Everywhere in India, we can also admire the beauty of silk saris. These unstitched wrap skirts with a shoulder wrap are a popular item of clothing for women. They are easy to wear and exude elegance and style, often decorated with intricate embroidery that makes each piece a work of art. Many tourists also discover the charm of wearing a lungi. Simple, airy and uncomplicated – a welcome change from typical travel clothing.
The winter season in India usually extends from December to February and invites tourists from all over the world to soak up the sun. With the onset of March, summer begins, also known as the pre-monsoon season, before May finally turns into the longed-for rainy season. The beaches of India, which stretch over an impressive 7000 km, are therefore always well attended.
In southern Kerala, on the famous Kovalam Beach, beach vendors make the most of every day of the season and seem to be on the move tirelessly to offer their wares. One of these vendors is a man I have known for more than two decades now. Every day you can see him on the beach, proudly selling his roasted cashews – salty or seasoned with chili. In an earlier conversation, he revealed to me that he had lost his left arm in a motorcycle accident and had previously worked as a carpenter. Despite this fate, he has found a new purpose in life, bringing home money for his family while offering tourists a little treat.
With his box full of cashew nuts, which I estimate to weigh 10-12 kg, I am always ashamed inside because he can only manage all of this with his right arm. Every day he crosses the hot sand, from morning to night, looking for customers. In the evenings he can often be found sitting somewhere on the promenade, attracting the attention of passers-by and hoping to attract the next buyer.
He is certain of my promise to buy two large packs of cashew nuts from him before I leave. Here on Kovalam Beach, where every seller works hard, the daily challenges become more than clear. Whether it is fruit ladies who arrive by bus with freshly harvested fruit and coconuts from Trivandrum, which is about 20 km away, or it is the sellers with their scarves, shawls and blankets, whether someone is selling handmade greeting cards, soapstone and wood carvings and drums, everyone is hoping for customers.
Day in, day out, they are exposed to extreme weather conditions. They make their living in the scorching sun and high temperatures, which deserves great respect.
It is very important to me to shop on the beach. When I buy their cashews and fruits, or even just bring home greeting cards, it supports their livelihood and enriches me with the connection I create with the local people.