MovingCamera
Photography & Travel
/// India 2025
At the end of January I traveled to India again………
A morning on Kovalam Beach has begun. The sun is beginning to rise above the horizon and bathe the beach more and more in light. The first rays of sunlight illuminate the fine sand and hit the early risers who have gathered on the beach, enjoying their classic „morning walks“ with bare feet through the sand, and some are lingering in silent meditation, completely in harmony with nature. The gentle sound of the waves is in the air and makes me, and certainly not the only one, keep closing my eyes.
It is seven thirty and the atmosphere is filled with peaceful serenity. I stroll barefoot along Lighthouse Beach, which stretches for about 500 meters. The promenade is lined with small hotels, accommodations, restaurants and shops waiting to open their doors. The first restaurant owners are starting to set the tables and prepare for the rush of guests. On the beach, staff are already setting up parasols and loungers to offer sun worshippers a comfortable place on the warm sand. Temperatures have already reached 28°C at this early hour – pleasant, as a light breeze from the open sea refreshes the air.
I take my time and enjoy the morning as I stroll through the sand. My eyes wander over the scenery, always looking for interesting subjects to capture with my camera. Last year I watched the fishermen almost every day as they hauled in their nets and presented their catch. But this year the daily routine of the locals seems to have changed. I have been told that many fishermen no longer go out every day because the income from the nets is becoming increasingly sparse. The effort they put in often does not bring enough for their families, let alone larger fish that they could sell to the surrounding restaurants.
Despite the challenges, the people here are business-minded. The high season begins in November and lasts until early April, then the rainy season begins with the monsoon, which sets in in May and covers the region with heavy showers. A woman sits patiently on the beach and waits for the first tourists to take up their loungers. She has brought tropical fruits – bananas, pineapples, mangos, papayas and coconuts – which she offers cut into bite-sized pieces on a tin plate. I have known many of the „fruit ladies“ for years; our exchanges are always warm. When we meet, we ask each other how we are and about our families – a lovely tradition that strengthens the bond.
Although I haven’t yet decided on a „fruit salad“ on this morning walk, she allows me to take her photo with a friendly smile. Her friendliness reflects the way of life and joy of the people here on Kovalam Beach – an ideal start to a new day in India.
Kovalam Beach in southern India, in the state of Kerala, attracts tourists from all over the world with its picturesque ambience.
In addition to relaxation, the beach and its surroundings offer the opportunity to buy all kinds of souvenirs from local vendors. It is not just the „fruit ladies“ who have their hands full during the high season to make a living. In addition to them, there are other talented vendors, such as this gentleman, who offers a variety of scarves, blankets and shawls made of high-quality cotton or sometimes fine silk.
The scarves in particular are very popular because they are so versatile. Men often use them as lungis, a traditional Indian form of wraparound skirt. The lungi consists of a rectangular piece of fabric with overlapping edges and is cleverly held around the waist by simply folding it over. This practical and airy clothing is not only comfortable, but also a part of the cultural identity of many people in India.
Everywhere in India, we can also admire the beauty of silk saris. These unstitched wrap skirts with a shoulder wrap are a popular item of clothing for women. They are easy to wear and exude elegance and style, often decorated with intricate embroidery that makes each piece a work of art. Many tourists also discover the charm of wearing a lungi. Simple, airy and uncomplicated – a welcome change from typical travel clothing.
The winter season in India usually extends from December to February and invites tourists from all over the world to soak up the sun. With the onset of March, summer begins, also known as the pre-monsoon season, before May finally turns into the longed-for rainy season. The beaches of India, which stretch over an impressive 7000 km, are therefore always well attended.
In southern Kerala, on the famous Kovalam Beach, beach vendors make the most of every day of the season and seem to be on the move tirelessly to offer their wares. One of these vendors is a man I have known for more than two decades now. Every day you can see him on the beach, proudly selling his roasted cashews – salty or seasoned with chili. In an earlier conversation, he revealed to me that he had lost his left arm in a motorcycle accident and had previously worked as a carpenter. Despite this fate, he has found a new purpose in life, bringing home money for his family while offering tourists a little treat.
With his box full of cashew nuts, which I estimate to weigh 10-12 kg, I am always ashamed inside because he can only manage all of this with his right arm. Every day he crosses the hot sand, from morning to night, looking for customers. In the evenings he can often be found sitting somewhere on the promenade, attracting the attention of passers-by and hoping to attract the next buyer.
He is certain of my promise to buy two large packs of cashew nuts from him before I leave. Here on Kovalam Beach, where every seller works hard, the daily challenges become more than clear. Whether it is fruit ladies who arrive by bus with freshly harvested fruit and coconuts from Trivandrum, which is about 20 km away, or it is the sellers with their scarves, shawls and blankets, whether someone is selling handmade greeting cards, soapstone and wood carvings and drums, everyone is hoping for customers.
Day in, day out, they are exposed to extreme weather conditions. They make their living in the scorching sun and high temperatures, which deserves great respect.
It is very important to me to shop on the beach. When I buy their cashews and fruits, or even just bring home greeting cards, it supports their livelihood and enriches me with the connection I create with the local people.
Last year, I was fortunate enough to visit a school in Tamil Nadu, India. This experience gave me powerful memories, which I was able to capture photographically.
I vividly remembered the children’s beaming faces and the cheerful teachers who cared for their lessons. As a small thank you for the unforgettable time I was able to spend there, I decided to bring home some of the photographs I had taken at that time as prints. The joy was immense. Their enthusiasm and gratitude touched me.
As we said our goodbyes, I spotted an elderly lady sitting on the floor at the end of the school building. My Indian friend, who was accompanying me, looked at me and asked if I would like to speak to her. I said, „With pleasure.“ We approached her, and with his help, he translated my greeting into a language she understood (Tamil). The elderly lady smiled as she looked at us both. A beautiful moment of encounter, which I was gratefully allowed to capture on camera as a keepsake.
Over the years, countless encounters have taken place, some of which have led to lasting contacts. Just like this humble-looking man, I’ve known him for several years. This elderly gentleman earns his living by tirelessly collecting PET bottles. These small pieces of plastic mean more to him than just trash. For a kilogram of collected bottles, he receives 20 rupees, which currently equates to about 21 cents. It may not seem like much, but for him, it’s a hard-earned income that provides him with the basic necessities of life.
This gentleman spends the whole day on Kovalam Beach with his fully loaded bicycle, selling his own homemade chai, and coffee for those who like it.
I’d seen him several times on the beach, laboriously pushing his bicycle through the sand, and had even tried his chai, but I didn’t have my camera with me. Then it was meant to be, as I was walking with my camera through the small alleys off the promenade and spotted him, resting, standing in front of a tailor’s shop with a cup of tea in his hand.
He also likes to take the time for a short break to enhance his own well-being with a chai.
At Kovalam Beach, it’s hard to resist the abundance of fruit on offer. Fruit ladies sit along the promenade, offering bananas, papayas, mangoes, pineapples, jackfruit, and coconuts.
Whether prepared individually or as a mixed fruit salad, it tastes just as it looks – all fresh from the market – incredibly delicious.
At Kovalam Beach, I met this lady, whom I’ve been seeing for years.
She sells fruit, either individually or as a fruit salad. This was an immediate opportunity for me to buy some delicious bananas from her…
At Vellayani Lake, I spotted this young man bringing ashore the harvested leaves of the lotus plants that grow throughout the lake.
Lotus leaves are ideal as a wrapping for rice and other fillings, as they infuse the contents with their unique fragrance when steamed.
Early in the morning at Vellayani Lake, this herdsman passed by with his three cattle, perhaps to cultivate his fields or drive the animals to the cattle market for sale.
I met this elderly gentleman at Vellayani Lake, gathering grasses and wild plants to sell at the market. The proceeds aren’t much, but it’s still a source of income.
When it comes to food, I’m still fascinated by the different flavors, aromas, and culinary skills.
The diversity of Indian cuisine is almost inexhaustible. Different regional specialties and creative recipes, often developed over generations, make curries and masalas taste so different. With classic side dishes like vegetables, rice, potatoes, and various types of bread, they round out the meal, which is eaten at any time of day throughout the country.
A morning trip to Vellayani Lake with friends I’ve been meeting at Kovalam Beach for years left us hungry for breakfast after a beautiful sunrise and a long walk. In a small nearby restaurant, we each ordered chai, the aromatic Indian tea, also prepared according to their own recipe, and appam, which was served with delicious vegetable and chicken curry, typical of India, on a banana leaf, just to our taste.
Dr. Bhadran, alternative practitioner and doctor at Kovalam Beach, known far beyond the borders of India.
